Going with thicker prints only makes sense for much larger prints. Other well-known slicing programs are Photon workshop, Lychee Slicer and the Prusa Slicer, but are usually. Sometimes when raft isn't convenient (like printing parts of the model on the plate and not wanting them to merge with the raft) I just selectively (but quickly) make some bases large enough to connect with the nearby bases and form something like small rafts, leaving out of the way the parts of the model touching the baseplate. The most used slicer for the Elegoo Mars is Chitubox.
** rafts - since I'm using Lychee the "line triangle" raft (ie support bases are connected like a graph with horizontal lines, which gives them plenty of strength but saves some material). Hello guys, ELEGOO Mars 3 3D Printer supports the Lychee Slicer 3.6 now More details please: Click Here () Beyond that, customers who have purchased Mars 3 don't need to worry about the expiration of Chitubox Pro's one-year license, since you can continue to apply the Chitubox basic version after the expiration. If you avoid leaving longer single supports you'll most likely have successful prints. Once you have good foundations you can simply support the islands and you're done. One important thing is to support the lowest parts (ie islands) especially of thicker parts of the model with more contact supports to avoid them failing before reaching the above supports. Defaults in both Chitubox & Lychee are far from what I need, there are useful functions in both slicers (though I lately switched to Lychee), but supports I have to do myself (I can use auto and then correct them, but it's not faster and starting from scratch allows me to do it more systematically instead of adapting every time to the auto-generated supports). I can print 3 times more models with the same resin! The only problem I currently have is that it takes time to do supports my way. if I've hollowed the model if its shape allows it) I usually use ~30~35% of the resin that the pre-supported print would use. When you have such tower, you can add many tips connected to the model (of course the tips of the tower columns also have to connect to the model), and this way you can safe a "ton" of resin! When I do my custom supports in that manner (and esp. One such tri-truss-tower even at 0.6mm columns can take a lot of load, and being braced makes it very stiff in all directions (not only in single plane as default bracing usually works). Braces too don't have to start immediately after the previous brace has ended. Also instead of using columns for most islands or support points (on flat(er) surfaces) you can simply build a triangular tower (ie 3 main columns) connected each with each other with braces, very similar to a truss tower. I've been experimenting lately and discovered that there's no problem to print with 0.6mm columns & 0.25mm tips (and not a huge raft**). But as I mentioned default supports & pre-supported models are actually most of the time huge overkill! I happened to break few parts when removing supports with pre-supported models. If you ignore material costs (and effort to separate model from supports at the end, potentially breaking thin model parts!) then thicker and more supports is better. Please contact the moderators of this subreddit if you have any questions or concerns.I'm sorry I'm really not trying to troll the authors here, but I just get the impression that this guide is mostly listing of the options in chitubox rather than actual guidelines on best/optimized supports. I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically.
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